Hello there.
We've just spent a week on Rousay - one of the Orkney islands - dubbed 'the Egypt of the North' because of the number of archaeological sites there are.
We stayed in a self-catering cottage, The Bakehouse. This lovely place is spacious, disabled friendly and extremely well-equipped. A real home from home. It's dog-friendly, too.
The island is only about 14 miles in circumference, so wherever we went for our morning walk we were able to pop home for lunch and then go out for the afternoon walk - it's astonishing how much less hassle that is for the chief cook and bottle-washer -i.e. me! No fussing about making sarnies and filling flasks first thing in the morning! Loved it.
The archaeological sites are indeed many, but they did give us a little pause for thought. Conservation of these fragile sites is of course essential, but on Rousay they seem to have gone a bit overboard.
Mid Howe chambered cairn is an impressively huge many-chambered cairn in which family burials were discovered - but they've built a barn roof over the top of it, so you now go indoors and gaze down upon it from scaffolding. This was an extremely unsettling experience - those with vertigo will find themselves on a narrow wooden walkway above an entirely unfamiliar landscape. I took a deep breath and walked on - there are handrails to help - but when I looked back my poor wee dog, who was following me as always, was completely frozen on the walkway. She hadn't got the benefit of the handrails, and was suspended on a narrow plank above a very odd drop. She really was utterly frozen. Mummy strength to the fore! Never mind your own terrors (like when you take your kids to the dentist!) rescue the wean! I climbed back up and walked backwards off of there with Maisie gazing at the toes of my boots and therefore able to move.
MidHowe Broch (just next to the cairn) is also very impressive, but the Ministry of Works in the 1950s obviously rebuilt some of it and tied it together with iron bolts.
It's very difficult to get the sense of connection with your ancestors that you can have when you're on your own in a stone circle, for example.
I know, it's a very difficult line to tread - preservation versus authenticity, but every cairn on Rousay has been roofed over in some way, and we soon found ourselves heading for the more recent remains of old farms and threshing barns which have been left (so far) to crumble.
We walked along the coast and around the headlands and, this being the breeding season, were sworn at by Curlew, Arctic Tern, Oystercatcher and the enormous Bonxie - The Great Skua. You need to be wearing a hat - they will dive-bomb you - and holding your walking pole up above your head helps, too! All good fun, and great views of birds you don't usually see that close up. An Arctic Tern hovering right above your head and screaming at you is quite an experience.
We all had a lovely week - even Maisie, who made much closer acquaintance with a deep mud pool than she really meant to. Nothing a dip in the sea and a Nice Bath couldn't sort!
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